Seal securely hose clamped in place with water supply barb pointed towards the direction you want to route the hose.Ĩ. If you have trouble sliding the seal onto the shaft insert a socket slightly larger than the cardboard tube and let it rest for a little to enlarge the o-rings.ħ. The seal is supplied with a cardboard tube to help keep the o-rings from constricting. We have covered the end of the shaft with the supplied seal protector (gray plastic) to be sure not to damage the graphite o-rings when sliding the new seal onto the shaft.

Loosen the 2 hose clamps and remove the stuffing box and hose.Ħ. Make sure to keep up with your woodruf key or keyway.ĥ. Dual tapered couplers will slide right off the shaft, single taper couplers keep cranking. Single taper couplers will not pop and must be pressed all the way off (mark where the old coupler was positioned on the shaft before removal).ģ. Tighten the couplers together evenly and the coupler should pop off. We now used 4 pieces of all-thread cut about 5' long with nuts on each end and placed a deep socket between the couplers. Consider Item #2216 or #2217 sockets with wrench flats for limited space.Ģ. *Notice we have plenty of room to get the socket wrench into the coupler, some boats you will not have enough driveshaft length to get a regular socket wrench between the couplers. You could use a board between the prop and hull if no coupling wrench is available.

Using the ARE coupling wrench (Item #2215) and 1-1/4' socket wrench we were able to secure the shaft and loosen the nut. This boat uses a 1-1/4' nylock nut to retain the coupler to the shaft, some boats use a 1-1/16' nut, also make sure to remove (if any) set screws on the coupler. At this point the driveshaft has been separated from the transmission coupler by removing the 4 bolts/ locknuts.

Discount inboard marine